Lens Selection
You have your travel plans, you’ve evaluated the locations and figured out your basic photographic needs as well as a few emotional wants, because … well … just because.
You’re going to need at least one camera body, two bodies are preferable since there is always the risk of breakage, loss, theft and failure. A second body is also valuable for the simple reason that it allows you to have another lens at the ready of a different focal length. For instance, if I’m walking around an urban area shooting the streets, I’ll typically be using a “normal” lens, that is a lens that sees with the same angle of view as my eyes, maybe a bit wider. I’ll also have a second wide angle lens stashed in a pocket or shoulder bag. Let’s say I see a doorway with really beautiful light and shadows, maybe other interesting features. Often I’ll switch my lens to the wide angle so I can get in close and have enough coverage to make a meaningful composition. A second camera body obviates the need to switch lenses. Instead, grab the second body and take the photograph.
You are probably wondering why I wasn’t just using something like a 24-70mm zoom instead. Good question.
Zooms or Primes
Zoom lenses are fantastic. They’re versatile, convenient and keep lens changes to a minimum. Keeping lens changes to a minimum is important for a couple of reasons. It means you won’t be fumbling with equipment and you’re always ready to go. Zooms simplify the task of composing an image in the viewfinder allowing you to tweak the composition with the twist of the collar. Since there are fewer lens changes, you’ll be keeping gunk out of your camera since dust, moisture and debris won’t be entering your camera body through the lens opening. They are also large, heavy, expensive and obtrusive.
Prime lenses are also fantastic. They’re versatile, convenient, fast, light, unobtrusive and relatively less expensive than zoom lenses. They require the photographer to be nimble on their feet and compose in their head rather than in the viewfinder. They may require you to make more frequent lens changes and generally demand better technique because unlike zooms there’s probably no image stabilization. However this is changing with the newer generations of camera bodies with “in body image stabilization” or “ibis”.
The One Lens Options
If you can only afford or choose to only carry one lens, buy a “normal lens” that is 50mm in full frame, 35mm in APS-C or 25mm in micro 4/3. Unfortunately, many people underestimate the strength and versatility of a normal lens. If you want the flexibility of getting in a little closer and the ability to shoot wide and crop later, buy a 35mm equivalent in your preferred format. A faster lens allows you to photograph in lower light, indoors and opens up interesting creative options. I like f/1.4 primes in full frame for these reasons. In my opinion they also have better micro-contrast and rendering than equivalent focal length zooms. On my APS-C system I use f/2 and f/2.8 primes because they are small, light and I can fit an extra lens in my pocket.
A single zoom lens option to consider is one of the 18-200mm or similar lenses that covers wide angle and mid range telephoto. Try to buy the highest quality all in one zoom you can afford. If cost is an issue, Tamron and Tokina makes some great affordable zoom lens options.
The Two Lens Options
A wide angle zoom in the range of 16-35mm is a workhorse travel photography lens used in cityscapes, landscapes, architecture, interiors, environmental portraiture and street photography. Many of these lenses in f/4 are also image stabilized. As a complement to this lens consider a fast normal prime.
However many people opt for a two lens f/2.8 zoom option in the ranges of a 24-70mm and 70-200mm. These are superb lenses and give great coverage but are expensive, large, obtrusive and heavy. If size, weight and cost are not an issue, they are certainly something to consider.
Some photographers may opt for a more minimal approach like a set of 35mm and 85mm f1.4 primes. For me, 35mm isn’t wide enough and if I only travel with two primes, it will be 24mm and 50mm f1.4 lenses. On my APS-C system I often only take 20mm f2.8 and 50mm f2 equivalent lenses. Unless I’m photographing wildlife, it’s all I need.
The Three Lens Options
When I think three lens kit I think wide angle zoom, fast normal prime and classic tele-zoom. This is my Nikon workhorse system, the 16-35mm f/4, 50mm f/1.4 and 70-200mm f/4. Most manufacturers make similar lenses. These three lenses provide great coverage, give you a versatile kit, and the zooms are smaller and lighter than their f/2.8 counterparts. They also provide comparable image quality without breaking the bank. If you are going to be photographing wildlife consider taking along a 100-400mm or similar lens instead of a 70-200mm.
The first time I ever traveled to Europe on my own, I rode Eurail with a backpack, and stayed in pensiones. The trip was made with the express goal of seeing the cities, meeting interesting people, viewing the country side and learning as much about the local culture as I could. I took along a three lens kit. With my worldly processions on my back, I carried a small canvas shoulder bag with an SLR body, 24mm f/2.8, 50mm f1.8 and 105mm f/2.5 lenses, a pile of Kodachrome and my journal. I had the open mind and the open heart of an explorer and I needed something that was small, simple to use and wouldn’t get in the way.
My recommendations for a three lens selection of prime lenses for travel don’t differ much from what I took on that first grand adventure. Today I would take a wide angle 20mm, a normal 50mm and a 75mm or 85mm short telephoto. If you don’t need something quite so wide, a 24mm instead of the 20mm would do the trick.
Wildlife Photography
For wildlife photography a 70-200mm zoom won’t have enough reach, even with an APS-C camera and 1.5x crop factor. Look for a focal length of at least 400mm, there are superb primes in this focal length and longer but they’re very expensive. Consider one of the 80-400mm, 100-400mm, 200-400mm or 200-500m lenses. They are more affordable, capable of producing fantastic images, and are easier to handle and carry.
Game parks generally don’t allow travelers to exit their vehicles due to the risks from predators. A large predator would view you as food if you were not protected by a vehicle and try to eat you. Additionally, thousands of tourists stomping around year after year would damage the delicate habitat and change the behavior of the wildlife even more than the steady flow off road vehicles.
Jungles and forests can be dark, especially early in the morning when animals are active and the light is more interesting. If you are going to be photographing from a vehicle bring a beanbag or monopod to help stabilize your lens. If you are in a location that allows photographers to walk and explore, a monopod or tripod are invaluable for creating sharp images. You’ll need to do a little research before you go.
Landscape Photography
Any of the above lens options would be useful for landscape photography. Don’t be convinced you need a special wide angle landscape lens, you don’t. Travel photography isn’t large format landscape photography and specialized landscape lenses have become a bit of an anachronism. If you want tack sharp high resolution files, technique matters. Know your gear. Invest in a tripod and learn how to use a self timer and cable release. Consider taking along polarizing and graduated neutral density filters with adapter rings to fit all your lenses. Most importantly use your creativity and imagination or you may end up with what Ansel Adams famously called a sharp image of a fuzzy concept.
Hurray! Next we’ll be putting the whole kit together, stay tuned.
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